Before I begin on my own rant, I will share my favorite rant from art/film for you to enjoy.
This is a normal passenger car tire and wheel rim. (right) I am using it for comparison. You’ll notice that the bead (where the tire connects with the wheel, there is nothing to hold that bead in place. It’s fine for a highway tire because it drives on hardball roads. (yes, I know that the hubcap obscures the actual bead but trust me, it’s a standard road wheel and tire)
The solution to the problem is to use ‘bead-lock’ wheels with a special ring that is bolted into place to hold the tire where it belongs even if the tire is barely inflated. The photo (right) is of a stock bead-lock wheel made by Ford for the Raptor. In this case, it’s on my 2014 Ford Raptor. Note that it’s standard factory equipment.
ONE
Let me set the stage in this way. Before beginning the off-road driving season this year, I’m getting the rig ready. That process involves checking EVERYTHING and replacing any part that is in the least bit worn or suspicious. (LSP, I swapped out all of the radiator hoses and the serpentine drive belt last year) This year, I changed the gear oil in the front and rear differentials and the transmission. There was a rear differential breather valve that had been torn off with rough running that needed to be replaced and the E-Locker (locks the rear differential electronically) wires were torn out – likely the same rough running that finished the breather valve.
This year, the tires are all being replaced. They have good tread on them for the most part and even though they are “E” rated with three ply sidewalls, they can also develop ‘dry rot’ for want of a better term (as any tire can). Thus I could wait for them to fail somewhere in a forsaken stretch of BLM land between hell and breakfast, or I could replace them now. Thus the subject of the rant.
TWO
This is a normal passenger car tire and wheel rim. (right) I am using it for comparison. You’ll notice that the bead (where the tire connects with the wheel, there is nothing to hold that bead in place. It’s fine for a highway tire because it drives on hardball roads. (yes, I know that the hubcap obscures the actual bead but trust me, it’s a standard road wheel and tire)
THREE
If you plan on taking the road less traveled, you will be abusing the tires and wheels and may be running on reduced tire inflation (referred to as “airing down”). If you air-down a conventional tire on a conventional wheel too far, the tire comes off the wheel and that’s that. You need to fully re-mount it because it will deflate (there are tricks to inflate the tire and do a ‘trail re-mount’, but I won’t go into those here)
FOUR
The solution to the problem is to use ‘bead-lock’ wheels with a special ring that is bolted into place to hold the tire where it belongs even if the tire is barely inflated. The photo (right) is of a stock bead-lock wheel made by Ford for the Raptor. In this case, it’s on my 2014 Ford Raptor. Note that it’s standard factory equipment.
That won’t mean much to you but hang with me as the rant continues. Keep in mind that it’s FACTORY OEM EQUIPMENT.
There are many types of bead-lock wheels and retrofits made by many manufacturers for many off-road uses. My 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser is heavily modified with (very heavy off-road/off-trail/get out of the mess that you got yourself into by being stupid) applications. Among those modifications areWalker Evans bead-lock wheels with Nitto TG 305/70/R17E tires. The tires are substantially wider than stock, and are substantially tougher than stock. The wheels are cast aluminum and are exceptionally tough. When the vehicle goes into the crusher (after I’m dead), the wheels will still be fine.
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| FJC Spare |
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| Close-up |
Note the fact that there are 24 individual bolts that hold the tire firmly to the wheel.
FIVE
I realize that I live in Southern California and the natural assumption that it is populated by a bunch of “progressive” freaks who belong to the Sierra Club and hate 4×4’s, but within 5 miles is just about every possible OEM and after market manufacturer for 4×4 parts. There are a lot of serious off road enthusiasts in my area.
SIX
I have contacted EVERY tire store in my area to get the 5 replacement tires (4 + spare) that I want to buy – and we’re talking about $1,500 in tires, mounting and balancing. In every case, they told me that they won’t work on bead-lock wheels. I used to have the work done at Big O Tires and paid them $25 per tire extra to remove, reinstall and torque wrench the locking rings. They told me, as have all the other tire shops that lawyers have cautioned them against that.
I found a shop in Oceanside, fifty miles from home, that will do it. I’m not lame, I can do it myself, but I’d rather hire the work done because I’m lazy. But their lawyers said “no”.
WHERE ARE THOSE LAWYERS? – DELIVER THEM TO ME! HANGING IS TOO GOOD FOR THEM! I’m thinking a large ant hill deep in the heart of the Mojave with about a gallon of honey. The only question is whether the ants, the buzzards or the coyotes will get there first. I’m confident that they were Obama voters, that they never knew who their fathers were, hate mom and apple pie as well.
Heh. Lawyers… but nice looking rig.
Okay – but why won't the lawyers let them work on bead-lock wheels?
Try a place that specializes in heavy equipment tires, like for off-road construction equipment.
As best I can determine, it's because, "What if we installed the locking ring wrong and it came off while you were driving, damaging your or another car?" The same could be said for the tire and wheel, but the lawyers aren't going there apparently because it would put the tire store out of business.
You need the right 4×4 for the right trail. This one works for me. Apparently lawyers don't like it.
I can pull off the locking rings and take the FJ to the tire place. They will mount the new tires and I'll reinstall the locking rings. The thing that sets me to ranting is that I'm paying these morons $1,500 for tires and they are flipping me off.
I don't blame you for being pissed at these maroons. It's just ignorance, since the concern is probably all the injuries that have happened with two-part aircraft wheel hubs. Lots of people have been killed by those, and even one of my buddies shattered his lower leg when he was absent-minded enough to unbolt a Sea Fury hub without deflating the tire. But they don't get that it's not the same thing. There's no way to get hurt working with bead-lock rings.
In light of your Gomez rant up top, I suggest giving the lawyers the "Debbie Treatment."
youtube.com/watch?v=g9OhykhqC2Q
Her parents bought her Malibu Barbie instead of Ballerina Barbie. Debbie's response is predictable…it's a very "progressive" reaction.
Yet, it may have been justified. Her parents may have been lawyers…
You're so funny. I feel your pain, I do. Don't they understand that it is essential to have good tYres on your truck for a good, off road ride? Progressive, namby pamby muppets (who probably use gender neutral toilets)
The litigation society wins again.
We always run bigger, wider tires than factory standards. Not because we off-road, but because we like the ride.
Be safe, have fun, and have a blessed week!
Good point….
I'll sort it all out.
I like the ride, and because it puts more traction under you – useful off road. Bead-lock wheels are OEM on my Raptor and even so, there are NO tire shops in Southern California that will deal with a bead-lock. Amazing. I've checked with a number of off-road shops. All say the same thing. Thanks lawyers.
What do you have when you have two lawyers buried up to there necks in sand? Not enough sand!
I feel your pain (Minus the lawyers). I just had new tires put on the motorhome two years ago at about $2500.00
$1500 buys a tire changing machine….can you get a substantial discount buy mail ordering the tires?
I have been thinking about going this route for M/C tires-
Still need to balance them, I do not know if a simple static balance is OK for a truck tire.
If you really want a vivid comparision, look at the instructions for a firearm sold before about 1965 and one today- on the old gun, the instructions will be one or two pages, or maybe (like the S+W's), printed inside the box lid. How to load and fire, how to field strip. The current instructions 50 pages, most of which is "stupid warnings.
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