Travel Notes

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Bullet Points:

** A discussion of the mentally challenged.

** The new Iranian Navy ships will have glass bottoms so they can see the old Iranian Navy.

** (Mail) Russian spies were behind a plot to send bombs to the UK in parcels of sex toys and cosmetics, police have revealed. The explosives, which were in packages containing massage pillows, sex toys, lubricants, and make-up, were sent to Britain, causing an explosion at a depot near Birmingham Airport. No one was hurt, but security officials believe the devices could have led to mass casualties if they had ignited on a passenger or cargo flight.

** The trust is gone. Can it return? I doubt it, as long as the UK is a Muslim country.

** Farange isn’t wrong.

** Iran’s fragile regime suffered another blow yesterday as reports emerged that Mojtaba Khamenei, son of the late Ayatollah Ali Khamenei and the man briefly installed as supreme leader, has been killed.

** Don’t cross the double yellow line. Traffic enforcement.

 

Travel Notes

The Kurds (primarily Zoroastrian) are the remnants of the ancient Assyrian Empire. They were, for want of a better word, screwed by the great powers when they drew boundaries for Iran, Iraq, and Turkey because they were not given a homeland. Allow me to explain briefly.

Britain heavily influenced the borders of Iraq and Iran through several diplomatic agreements between 1913 and 1937, primarily as a result of the partitioning of the Ottoman Empire.

  • Constantinople Protocol (November 1913): At the urging of Britain and Russia, a four-party boundary commission (including the Ottoman Empire and Persia/Iran) established a detailed delimitation of the entire boundary. This protocol is considered a foundation for the modern frontier.
  • Sykes-Picot Agreement (May 1916): During World War I, British diplomat Mark Sykes and French diplomat François Georges-Picot secretly drew “spheres of influence” that defined the general territory of modern-day Iraq, though it primarily focused on dividing Ottoman Arab provinces rather than the exact Iranian border.
  • Treaty of Lausanne (1923): This international treaty formally set the northern borders of Iraq (then a British mandate) with the newly formed Republic of Turkey, further stabilizing the regional map.
  • Frontier Treaty of 1937: Brokered while Britain still held significant influence over Iraq, this treaty reaffirmed the 1913/1914 boundary lines. It was specifically designed to resolve disputes over the Shatt al-Arab waterway, a major source of tension between the two nations.

The borders are often described as “artificial” because they frequently ignore tribal, ethnic, and linguistic realities. For example, the Kurdish population was split across Turkey, Iraq, and Iran, leading to over a century of conflict. Disputes over these British-influenced lines, particularly the waterway border, are still a point of friction.

When I was in Kurdistan in 2025, I was surprised that the border between Iran and Kurdistan was open and that people could move freely across it. I was riding around with the Kurdish version of the CIA. My companion was the #3 guy in that organization. He said, “Kurds may come and go, we don’t allow Persians to cross.” Though I couldn’t tell the difference, THEY certainly could.

The Kurdistan Region of Iraq (KRG) consists of four main governorates:

Erbil (Hawler), Sulaymaniyah (Slemani), Duhok (Dihok), and Halabja. These northern provinces are administered by the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG). While often considered part of the broader Kurdish cultural region, areas like Kirkuk are disputed rather than under formal KRG administration. That means many Kurds live in Kirkuk, even though it’s officially part of Iraq.

To visit Kurdistan, an Iraqi (Arab) must obtain a visa, even though Kurdistan is part of Iraq. I have visas for Iraq and for Iraqi Kurdistan in my passport.

Thick books are written on the topic of Kurdistan, and I’m covering volumes and centuries in a few paragraphs, so forgive me if my brevity leads to an error. Kurds (Kurdistan) live in Turkey, Syria, Iraq, and Iran, and they are factionalized based on realpolitik. Murdering Kurds has been a national pastime for the Turks for at least a century in the modern era. The Kurdish Turks respond in kind. The Syrians took the position of leaving the Kurds alone (for the most part). Syrian Kurds are socialists because the Russians armed them and supported them, but they have always been Kurds first.

(right – LL in the old souk, 2025 – Erbil, Kurdistan – If I look tired, I hadn’t slept in 3 days when the photo was taken. Busy working. The Kurds lace apple juice with a strong stimulant that I conflate with the German use of Pervitin (methamphetamine hydrochloride). When they need to stay awake. Oh, it works. I didn’t know that there was anything in the apple juice besides juice.)

During World War Two, the OSS was heavily engaged with the Kurds, and the US government has remained a presence ever since – covertly and overtly. There are two primary factions in Iraqi Kurdistan, the Talibani and the Barzani. The Talibani are primarily from Sulaymaniyah. The Barzani are from Erbil. The Barzani are heavily backed by the CIA/USGOV and are in power. The Taliban have been somewhat closer to the Iranians and made a lot of their money from trafficking opium. There has been friction between the two groups. The Iranian Kurds had their own orientation and remained ARMED and in OPPOSITION to Tehran even before the present war. The Ayatollah more or less left the Kurds alone, the way that the Iraqis did, because they’re Kurds. They don’t tolerate much BS. And when I write that, they are VERY tolerant socially, but they want to keep what is theirs.

Even though the photos above were taken in the old city, Erbil reminds me very much of Dubai, twenty years ago. There are a lot of skyscrapers, and the place is thriving. The Kurdish flag flys ove Kurdistan, not the Iraqi flag.

Let’s go back in time again, to antiquity, before I close this out. Historically, the Kurds were used as mercenary troops by rival kingdoms for their ferocity.

Salah ad-Din Yusuf ibn Ayyub (c. 1137 – 4 March 1193), commonly known as Saladin, was a Kurdish commander and political leader. Salah ad-Din founded the Ayyubid dynasty and was the first sultan of both Egypt and Syria. An important figure of the Third Crusade, he spearheaded the Muslim military effort against the Crusader states in the Levant. At the height of his power, the Ayyubid realm spanned Egypt, Syria, Upper Mesopotamia, the Hejaz, Yemen, and Nubia. His rise makes for interesting reading, but I won’t delve here. Suffice to say that the Kurds have been a regional powerhouse since the beginning of recorded history. Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region in Iraq, is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, with a history spanning approximately 6,000 to 8,000 years. Archaeological evidence and historical records indicate habitation dating back to at least the 5th millennium BCE, with the Citadel of Erbil being a major, long-standing, historic site (behind me in the photo above). Alexander the Great chose to leave the Kurds alone as he conquered the known world.

The word “Peshmerga” can be translated to “to stand in front of death.” I can attest, as can many others, that their loyalty (including their loyalty to the US in recent times) has been tested, and they stand before death with manifest courage. I like the Kurds, and I admire them, so there is some bias based on personal experience.

Recently, the Kurds were at the forefront of the US war against ISIS. The Peshmerga made the “ultimate sacrifice” in the war against the Islamic State, with over 1,300 Peshmerga fighters being killed, and upwards of 8,000 being wounded. The Peshmerga are seen by locals as heroes due to their involvement in the fight against ISIS.

Post-ISIS Peshmerga reforms focused on unification and modernization. In September 2022, the U.S. and the KRG renewed an MoU to create a unified, nonpartisan force under MoPA command by 2026, including disbanding the partisan Units 70 and 80, establishing two Area Commands and 11 light infantry divisions, and achieving a planned strength of 138,000. By mid-2025, four divisions were operational, biometric enrollment exceeded 85%, and unification entered its final phase, with completion expected by year-end. Advancements included the 2025 ‘Peshmerga Medical Force Readiness Initiative’ and proposals for air defense systems. Continued Coalition support via CTEF provided stipends, vehicles, and equipment.

The Peshmerga are divided by the political divide in Kurdistan (mostly tribal). The KDP Peshmerga (Erbil) and the PUK Peshmerga (Sulymaniah) are united in this case in the invasion of Iran to support Iranian Kurds achieve independence from Iran and to support the US/Israel interest to allow Iran freedom from the Theocratic State that exists there. USGOV supports this effort completely.

I will also add that while Israel is strongly at odds with Iraq, it is allied with Kurdistan – and has been for some time. The Zoroastrian Kurds don’t have an axe to grind with the Jews, the way that Arabs seem to.

Questions?

40 thoughts on “Travel Notes

  1. Read a comment elsewhere about Kurds and Armenians. Sounded like some bad blood going on there. Another comment was about one popular Kurdish group being big fans of Marxism.
    Wonder how much of all that was real and how much was online FUD.

  2. The PKK (Syria) is pro-Marxist in large part because Russia supplied them in their struggle against our Turkish “allies” who lob artillery rounds at them for fun. I don’t know if all this will change in the coming years.

  3. Thank you ,As Always for the Historical Take on the Region. Seems President Trump with just a Few Advisors could could keep his pledge of no Boots on the Ground by Arming up the Kurds ,Seems that could be a Win Win for the Entire Middle East.

        1. I think it runs deeper than that. Marsur Barzini, Prime Minister of Kurdistan, is a U.S. citizen and owns homes in the United States. Everyone under 30 speaks English.

    1. ‘Boots on the ground’…brothers text: “All the talking heads and ‘think tankers’ are convinced it can’t be done without ‘boots on the ground'” [despite it is being done]…he continued…”all 2000’s strategy…as soon as Trump decides it’s safe for the population to go out…he tells them and this is over.”
      Waiting for Lindsay Graham to chime in….3,2,1.

  4. My wife and I follow a YT channel called Itchyboots. She is a Dutch girl riding her motorcycle solo across the world. A few months back she rode through Turkey and down through Kurdistan, Iraq, a bit in Iran, Kuwait, Saudi, and into Yemen. She had great experiences there and certainly covered her hair while in a few places. She crossed over south-central Asia and is now in China.

    1. It might work out for her, and then again, it might not. I find the area interesting and caught in a significant cultural shift.

      1. She was in Colorado a few years back, nice bike setup…seems like and interesting person…but risk taking in those other countries is not a good idea for a woman traveler.

  5. UK: Yeah, running a little late to the party…this from PDJT:

    “The United Kingdom, our once Great Ally, maybe the Greatest of them all, is finally giving serious thought to sending two aircraft carriers to the Middle East. That’s OK, Prime Minister Starmer, we don’t need them any longer — But we will remember. We don’t need people that join Wars after we’ve already won!”

    Lowered the boom in his inimitable fashion (and what WTP are thinking)….like the guy who shows up to the jobsite after all the work is done then starts offering his help.
    ***
    Mentally challenged…how about Joe Biden (who?) at Jesse Jackson’s memorial going full ‘off leash’. What is with the handlers letting him out to make a fool of himself even more? Boggles the mind that these people have zero shame.
    ***
    Nice treatise on Kurdistan…really interesting first hand account from someone we can trust. Stay safe out there.

    1. The British will finally be able to set sail with a frigate in the next week. The two carriers and their escorts will take a month or more to get readuy to sail.

      Contrast that to all of the UK navy sailing within 3 days of the Falklands War starting.

        1. They need to cannibalize parts from the other 3 destroyers in drydock to get HMS Dragon to Cypress. Hopefully, a tug won’t need to accompany it. I think we know that the British stand firmly with Islam. They made that clear. The war will be over by the time they can clear the harbor.

  6. TNX. I was concerned about the future of the Kurdish people, in all the Arab states, as well as Persia, but my main question is will they be content to be landlocked?

  7. Azerbaijan is a solid Israeli ally, Western client via a Turkish pipeline and no friend of Iran. About 25% of Iranians are ethnic Azeris. Their army is massed on the Iranian border. And Tabriz beckons…

      1. The world, and the Middle East, will learn the harsh consequences of FAFO. The Kurds were biding their time, waiting for a leader. DJT appeared, armed them, and appears to have both promised support and granted them a green light.

          1. The Barzani Tribe is very large and they are a tribe of adoption historically, so they welcome members from other tribes to join.
            .
            Barzini is as dead as Moe Green.

  8. This, this whole thing, is forming into a huge shakeup of alliances and powers. The Middle East is becoming more modern and less radical while Europe is becoming the Caliphate. Shades of Tom Kratman’s “Caliphate.”

    Thanks for the info. I don’t trust the established sources as they all seem to be compromised. You, LL, on the other hand, are a trustable source.

    Now to see if Reza Pavlavi will have a chance to be the interim leader of a free Iran. He says he’s up to it, and doesn’t want to change much of the government except to get the real hardliners out.

    1. I think that Reza will speak at CPAC, if memory serves. So we know where his bread is buttered.
      .
      Thanks for the confidence, Beans. I try to call them the way I see them.
      .
      Yes, the Middle East is transforming itself; there are limits, and I don’t think those limits are bad. There is a lot of cultural baggage that needs to be sorted out.

      1. Funny, due to Biden’s mental absence and his admin’s handling of the Middle East, and of Trump’s completely opposite mental abilities and treatment of the Middle East, the non-Iran and non-terrorist parts of said Middle East are sure coming around to the side of polite civilization.

        I never in my lifetime would have thought that Israel and all the islamic countries would be on the same side of God. Crazy times. Crazy good times, but still crazy times.

  9. I wonder if the old beards who drew up all those artificial lines split the Kurds up that way on purpose or merely by arrogant ignorance.
    .
    Interesting about Saladin’s ethnicity. I’ve been meaning to read up on him, will have to move that up a bit. Would you perhaps recommend a book or two?

    1. Try “The Life, Legend of the Sultan Saladin” by Johnathan Phillips. Then read John Mann’s “Saladin, the Suitan who vanquished the Crusaders”. Then if you still want more which I doubt read the books by James Reston. There are several by him.

      1. Forgot to say … Amazon used books works fine for above. Just be sure to check condition carefully as some are full of yellow highlighting or scribbles and hard to read. Better one with a damaged cover than one that some nimwit with a yellow highlighter who colored the whole book yellow.

  10. Questions; As asked before, for a dear friend, can the parallel line penciled in be erased and except for Turkey, the adjoining nations and world PTB allow for reasonable border changes of the Kurdish Nation?

    1. I don’t know what to say about Syria. (You’ll ask if I’m syrious) That turf is claimed by the PKK, Turkey wants it, and so does Syria, which has made concessions to both the US and Israel, trying to keep free from being invaded by Turkey and bombed into the Stone Age by Israel – tough line to walk while being a former Al Qaeda tool. I think that Iran will look very different in October than it does today in many ways, including national boundaries. Will they still keep access to the Caspian? I can’t even guess. I don’t know that they NEED it. Russia (a neighbor) is looking at all this from a position of weakness, having shot its bolt in Ukraine and lost. China would like to play but they don’t have a chair at the table, either. The British would like a chair, and they might have had one, but not now.
      .
      So, yes, but I think that the PKK and Syria are best left where they are, and there is no reason to draw the Turks into this. I think that it’s in everyone’s interest to keep the Kirkuk-Ceyhan Oil Pipeline, also known as the Iraq-Turkey Crude Oil Pipeline (ITP) open.

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